Saitama Local Cuisine: Hiyajiru / Suttate

Alright, gather ’round folks, let me tell you about a real classic – Hiyajiru, or as they call it in Kawashima Town, Suttate! [cite: 1, 2, 3, 4] It’s a chilled soup that’s like a big ol’ hug on a hot summer day, and it’s got deep roots here in Saitama. [cite: 1, 2, 3, 4] This dish is all about using what’s good and local, and it’s a testament to the ingenuity of the farmers who came before us.

Dish Name: Hiyajiru / Suttate (冷や汁／すったて)

• Region / Location: Kawashima Town, Iruma area, Northern Saitama Prefecture
• Primary Area of Tradition: Kawashima Town, Iruma area, Northern Saitama Prefecture
• Main Ingredients: Vegetables

How It’s Eaten / Served

Hiyajiru is a chilled soup that has evolved uniquely in various regions across Japan, using locally available vegetables and fish. [cite: 5, 6, 7] Saitama’s version is closely tied to the area’s “udon culture,” where wheat cultivation was common as a secondary crop to rice. [cite: 5, 6, 7] So, Hiyajiru became a popular dipping sauce for udon noodles. [cite: 8, 9, 10] Back in the day, farming was mostly manual labor, and rice farmers were super busy from planting to harvest, working from dawn till dusk. [cite: 8, 9, 10] Hiyajiru was a lifesaver because it was easy to make and packed with nutrients, perfect for those hectic farming periods. [cite: 11, 12, 13] Kawashima Town, surrounded by rivers and blessed with fertile land, has a long history of rice cultivation, and Hiyajiru, or “Suttate” as they call it there, was a staple food for farm families. [cite: 11, 12, 13] The name “Suttate” comes from the fact that the ingredients, like vegetables, were ground up in a “suribachi” (mortar), and they ate it “suri-tate” (freshly ground). [cite: 14] It’s also known as “Hiyashi-jiru” (冷やし汁) or “Tsuttate” (つったて). [cite: 15, 16] To make it, you grind sesame seeds and miso in a suribachi, then add a bunch of refreshing veggies like cucumber, perilla leaves (shiso), and Japanese ginger (myoga). [cite: 15, 16] Finally, you pour in cold water and mix it all up. [cite: 17] In Kawashima’s Suttate, they grind the vegetables in the suribachi too, which is a key characteristic. [cite: 17] And it’s not just for udon; some folks like to generously ladle it over rice!

Cultural Background and Preservation

Hiyajiru, made with freshly harvested vegetables and cold water, was a beloved dish for farmers working under the hot summer sun. [cite: 18, 19] It’s seasoned with miso, which is rich in protein and helps replenish salt, and the addition of summer vegetables like cucumber, shiso, and myoga makes it a refreshing and appetizing meal, even on those days when you don’t have much of an appetite because of the heat. [cite: 20] Today, Hiyajiru isn’t just a farmhouse dish; it’s a regular summer item in households. [cite: 20] Restaurants in the prefecture are also serving it up, using local ingredients and adding their own twists to the noodles and broth. [cite: 21] Kawashima Town’s mascot, “Kawabee,” even carries a surikogi (pestle) for making Suttate and wears an outfit that looks like a bowl!

Additional information:

• Suribachi (すり鉢): A Japanese mortar, typically made of earthenware with a rough interior, used for grinding ingredients.
• Surikogi (擂粉木): A wooden pestle used with a suribachi.
• Shiso (紫蘇): Also known as perilla, an aromatic herb often used in Japanese cooking.
• Myoga (茗荷): Japanese ginger, a type of ginger with a distinctive flavor and aroma.