Oita Local Cuisine: Kirasumameshi

Alright, let’s talk about a dish from Oita Prefecture that’s all about making the most of what you’ve got – Kirasumameshi! This dish from Usuki City is a testament to resourcefulness, combining fresh fish with the humble okara. It might have started as a way to stretch ingredients, but it’s become a local favorite with a unique story.

Dish Name: Kirasumameshi

• Region / Location: Usuki City, Oita Prefecture.
• Primary Area of Tradition: Usuki City.
• Main Ingredients: Fish (sashimi), okara (soy pulp), kabosu citrus fruit.

How It’s Eaten / Served

Kirasumameshi is made by marinating sashimi slices, like yellowtail, mackerel, or tuna, in a soy sauce-based marinade. Then, the marinated fish is coated in okara (the leftover pulp from making soy milk). It’s typically garnished with condiments like green onions or ginger, and a squeeze of kabosu, a local citrus fruit, is essential for that final touch. This citrus adds a wonderful fragrance and refreshing flavor. Every family has their own twist on the marinade and garnishes, making each version unique.

Cultural Background and Preservation

Usuki City, located in the southeastern part of Oita Prefecture, stretches along the Hoyo Strait. Facing Usuki Bay and bordered by the mountains of Mt. Chinnan and Mt. Hime, the area has a long history of fishing, with various methods like single-line fishing and small-scale trawling. The area is known for its swordfish, yellowtail, and pufferfish. Kirasumameshi is a local dish of Usuki City, alongside “Yellow Rice” and “Chadai Sushi.” Unlike “Yellow Rice,” which is enjoyed in winter, and “Chadai Sushi,” which is served for special occasions, Kirasumameshi is eaten year-round.

During the mid-Edo period, the Usuki domain often faced financial difficulties, leading to strict regulations on food and clothing. It’s said that Kirasumameshi was created during this time as a way to make the most of leftover sashimi or the fish scraps after filleting. By coating the fish with okara, people could make a little bit of fish go further. Despite being a frugal dish, it was nutritious and popular among the common people. The name “Kirasumameshi” comes from the local Usuki dialect: “Kirazu” means okara, “mamesu” means to coat, and it refers to coating the “kirazu” (okara) on the “kirami” (sashimi). In the past, it was said that merchants and people visiting from the mountains to pay taxes looked forward to eating Kirasumameshi.

While Kirasumameshi is enjoyed at home throughout the year in Usuki City, it’s particularly popular during cherry blossom viewing in spring. It’s also a dish used to welcome and treat important guests. Today, you can still find Kirasumameshi in homes and even purchase it at supermarkets in Usuki City. To promote local cuisine, the prefecture has created a food education video series called “Local Cuisine Rap (Ba).” The videos introduce recipes for dishes like “Yaseuma” and “Ryukyu” in a rap music format.

Additional information:

• Okara (おから): The pulp left over after making soy milk.
• Kabosu (かぼす): A citrus fruit similar to lemon or lime, popular in Oita Prefecture.