Hiroshima Local Cuisine: Wani no Sashimi (Shark Sashimi)

Alright, let’s sink our teeth into this intriguing dish from Hiroshima Prefecture! Now, hold on a sec – they call it “Wani no Sashimi,” which translates to “Crocodile Sashimi,” but what they’re actually eating is shark! Yep, you heard that right. In the mountainous parts of the Chugoku region, there’s an old-fashioned way of calling sharks “wani,” and even the crocodile that pops up in the ancient “Tale of the White Rabbit” is thought to be a shark. Back in the Edo period, merchants from the Sea of Japan side brought sharks to this area. Since shark meat contains a lot of ammonia, it stays fresh enough to eat raw for about half a month. So, starting in the late Meiji era, when fishermen from Shimane Prefecture began transporting it regularly, it became a common dish at home, enjoyed as sashimi. In a time when getting fresh seafood to landlocked mountain regions was tough, shark was a real treasure. To tackle that ammonia smell that gets stronger over time, they usually eat it with ginger soy sauce, though some families prefer a sweet soy sauce. This dish is a star during fall festivals, New Year’s celebrations, and other special occasions. In Miyoshi City, there’s even an old saying of hospitality: “Eat as much wani as you like, so you don’t get a chill in your belly.” Around Miyoshi City in northern Hiroshima, they eat about 20 kinds of shark, mainly blue shark, salmon shark, and hammerhead shark. The color of the meat varies by species; the redder ones look a bit like marlin, with less fat, tender meat, and a mild flavor. That’s why in Miyoshi, they sometimes call shark “Miyoshi Marlin,” and in Saijo Town of Shobara City, they even call it “Saijo Tuna.” While it’s caught year-round, it’s said to be even tastier in the fall and winter when the meat firms up.

Dish Name: Wani no Sashimi (Shark Sashimi)

• Region / Location: Hiroshima Prefecture
• Primary Area of Tradition: Miyoshi City and Shobara City in the northern region (Bihoku)
• Main Ingredients: Shark (mainly blue shark, salmon shark, hammerhead shark), ginger, garlic, soy sauce

How It’s Eaten / Served

The shark is prepared as sashimi (thinly sliced raw fish) and typically eaten with ginger soy sauce to help neutralize any ammonia odor. Some people also enjoy it with sweet soy sauce. Besides sashimi, shark is also used in a variety of other dishes like stews, fried dishes, tempura, aspic (nikogori), parboiled (yubiki), kabayaki (grilled with sweet soy sauce), in clear soup (osuimono), pickled in sweet and sour sauce (nanbanzuke), and even in “wani meshi” (shark rice). The key to enjoying it as sashimi is often the fresh ginger soy sauce, which complements the unique flavor of the shark.

Cultural Background and Preservation

Despite being called “wani” (crocodile), the actual ingredient is shark, also referred to as “fuka.” In the mountainous areas of the Chugoku region, there’s an old term “wani” for shark, and it’s believed that even the “wani” in the myth of “The White Rabbit of Inaba” in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) refers to a shark. Records show that sharks were brought to this region by merchants from the Sea of Japan side during the Edo period. Since shark meat is high in ammonia, it has a relatively long shelf life and can be eaten raw for about two weeks. From the late Meiji era, when fishermen from Shimane Prefecture started transporting it to the area, it became a common household dish enjoyed as sashimi. In a time when transportation was underdeveloped, fresh seafood was hard to come by in the landlocked mountains, making shark a valuable food source. The stronger ammonia smell that develops over time is why it’s often eaten with ginger soy sauce, though some families also used sweet soy sauce. It’s mainly enjoyed during fall festivals, New Year’s, and other celebratory occasions. In Miyoshi City, the traditional welcoming phrase “Eat as much wani as you like, so you don’t get a chill in your belly” reflects its importance. The sharks eaten in northern Hiroshima Prefecture, mainly around Miyoshi City, include about 20 species, with blue shark, salmon shark, and hammerhead being the most common. The meat color varies by species; the redder meat resembles marlin, is low in fat, tender, and mild in flavor. This led to local nicknames like “Miyoshi Marlin” in Miyoshi City and “Saijo Tuna” in Saijo Town of Shobara City. While caught throughout the year, it’s considered especially delicious from autumn to winter when the flesh firms up.

Additional information:

• Sashimi: Thinly sliced raw fish or meat, served with various condiments.
• Ammonia: A compound with a strong, pungent odor. Shark meat naturally contains urea, which can break down into ammonia after the shark is caught.
• Ginger soy sauce (Shoga Joyu): Soy sauce infused with grated ginger, often used as a dipping sauce for sashimi to help neutralize odors and add flavor.
• Edo period: The period of Japanese history from 1603 to 1868.
• Meiji era: The period of Japanese history from 1868 to 1912.
• Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): The oldest extant chronicle in Japan, dating from the early 8th century.
• Chugoku region: The westernmost region of Honshu, the largest island of Japan. Hiroshima Prefecture is part of this region.
• Kabayaki: A method of preparing fish, especially eel, where it is split, deboned, butterflied, marinated in a sweet and savory sauce, and grilled.
• Osuimono: A clear soup in Japanese cuisine.
• Nanbanzuke: A Japanese dish of fried fish or vegetables marinated in a sweet and sour sauce, often with chili peppers.
• Gansu: A local specialty of Hiroshima, a type of fried fishcake.