Aomori Local Cuisine: Tara no Jappa Jiru

Okay, everyone, let’s talk about a real honest-to-goodness dish from Aomori – Tara no Jappa Jiru! Now, “Jappa” might sound a bit funny, but it’s just the local way of saying “leftovers” or “scraps.” We’re talking about a hearty, flavorful soup made with all the parts of the cod that you’d usually toss – the head, bones, skin, guts, the whole shebang! Don’t let that scare you, though; it’s seriously delicious, especially on a cold winter day.

Dish Name: Tara no Jappa Jiru / 鱈のじゃっぱ汁

• Region / Location: Aomori Prefecture, especially the Tsugaru region.
• Primary Area of Tradition: Tsugaru region.
• Main Ingredients: Cod, daikon radish, carrots, green onions, and miso.

How It’s Eaten / Served

So, here’s the deal with Jappa Jiru: “Jappa” in the Tsugaru dialect means “Zappa” or “thrown away,” referring to the parts of the fish like the head, bones, skin, and innards that aren’t usually eaten. But instead of tossing them, they make a killer soup! Cod is a big deal in the Tsugaru region, especially around New Year’s. Back in the day, it was a whole thing to buy a massive cod and drag it home through the snow. After filleting the fish, they’d simmer the “leftovers” with veggies like daikon radish, carrots, and green onions to make a warming soup. It was a simple, hearty, and super tasty way to get through the freezing winter.

Cultural Background and Preservation

Jappa Jiru is a New Year’s dish in Aomori. Codfish is “the” fish for New Year’s celebrations in the Tsugaru region. They even have a saying, “Cod New Year’s” (鱈正月), which tells you how important it is! The best cod is caught in the dead of winter when it’s extra fatty. In the old days, when the fishermen had a big catch, the women on shore would whip up Jappa Jiru to celebrate. They’d clean the cod right there on the beach and cook it up with homemade miso in their sheds. That hot soup was the ultimate welcome-home for the fishermen after a long, freezing day at sea. And even now, it’s a winter staple in homes and on the coast.

To make it, they hack the cod head in half, chop the bones into manageable pieces, and clean the guts real good. The key is to make a huge pot of it! Daikon radish and green onions are must-haves, but other veggies and tofu can vary from family to family. Right at the end, they melt in the cod liver, which adds a crazy rich and deep flavor. And if you can throw in some fresh cod milt (shirako), even better!

These days, not everyone cooks a whole cod at home, but you can easily find cod scraps prepped for Jappa Jiru at the local supermarket. With the whole “local food” movement, restaurants and inns in the area are also serving up traditional Jappa Jiru, which is great.

Additional information:

• Zappa (雑把): A Tsugaru dialect word meaning “leftovers” or “scraps,” referring to the parts of the fish not typically eaten.
• Shirako (白子): Cod milt, the soft roe of male cod.