Tokyo Metropolis’s Local Cuisine: Fukagawa Meshi / Fukagawa Do

Fukagawa Meshi is a classic dish from the Fukagawa area of Tokyo, traditionally a simple bowl of rice topped with fresh asari clams and green onions simmered in miso broth. Nowadays, you’ll find two main styles: the “bukkake” (topped) version and the “takikomi” (cooked with rice) version. There’s even a “Fukagawa Nabe” (hot pot) if you’re looking for something heartier.

Dish Name: Fukagawa Meshi / Fukagawa Don

• Region / Location: Tokyo Metropolis, Japan
• Primary Area of Tradition: Koto Ward (formerly Fukagawa area)
• Main Ingredients: Rice, asari clams, carrots, burdock root, fried tofu (aburaage), dried shiitake mushrooms, miso (for the original style)

How It’s Eaten / Served

While it was once a common everyday meal, Fukagawa Meshi is now more often enjoyed at restaurants. The “bukkake” style is the original – rice with clams and green onions in miso broth poured over it. The “takikomi” style involves cooking the rice with the clams and other ingredients. You can find both served hot.

Cultural Background and Preservation

Back in the Edo period, Tokyo Bay was rich in shellfish, and the Fukagawa area was a thriving fishing town famous for asari clams. People used to buy just the shelled clams (“nukimi”), which led to the development of cooking them with rice (“takikomi gohan”). Pouring hot broth over this rice became a popular way to eat it. Although the local fishing grounds declined due to pollution and land reclamation, Fukagawa Meshi has seen a revival thanks to local restaurants wanting to bring back this beloved dish, especially with the opening of cultural attractions like the Basho Memorial Museum and the Fukagawa Edo Museum. The Fukagawa Meshi Promotion Council continues to share its appeal, and you can even find “takikomi” style Fukagawa Meshi as ekiben (train station bento boxes).

Additional information:

• Asari clams: Small, saltwater clams commonly found in the tidal flats of Japan. They have a delicate and savory flavor that is central to Fukagawa Meshi.
• Miso: A traditional Japanese seasoning produced by fermenting soybeans with salt and koji (a type of mold). It has a rich, umami flavor and is a key component of the original Fukagawa Meshi broth.
• Bukkake (ぶっかけ): A Japanese term for a dish where hot broth or sauce is poured directly over noodles or rice. In the context of Fukagawa Meshi, it refers to the style where the miso-simmered clams and onions are poured over the rice.
• Takikomi gohan (炊き込みご飯): A Japanese rice dish where the rice is cooked together with various ingredients like vegetables, meat, or fish, allowing the rice to absorb their flavors. The Fukagawa Meshi version includes clams, carrots, burdock root, shiitake mushrooms, and fried tofu.
• Nukimi (剥き身): Shelled seafood. In the history of Fukagawa Meshi, vendors selling only the shelled asari clams (“nukimi”) were common.
• Ekiben (駅弁): Japanese box lunches sold at train stations. “Takikomi” style Fukagawa Meshi is a popular ekiben, making it accessible to travelers.
• Umami (うま味): One of the five basic tastes (along with sweet, sour, bitter, and salty). It is often described as savory or meaty and is a key characteristic of miso and seafood.